Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Can you stain brasilian cherry? Is ebony the darkest?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 1:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2004 8:56 pm
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Location: Marin County
Hello I have a client how doesn't like parquiet. He would like to stain it as dark so one can not recognize it is parquet. I did a test with ebony minwax stain and it still came out too light.

Maybe I will just install red oak and stain it ebony.
I was wondering if there is a darker stain on the market then ebony.
What manufactures are best?

How about staing brazilian cherry?


Thank you.
Rafal

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 1:37 pm 
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Put a piano finish to it.

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 Post subject: Have you used piano finish?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 6:47 pm 
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Hello Floor guy.
What do you mean piano finish?
do you know of any manufactures that would do stain darker then ebony?
Thanks.
Highly appriciate

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:16 pm 
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2 coats of black analine dye and 2 coats of ebony stain and you won't be able to tell it's wood at all.
Danny


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 Post subject: What do you mean Danny
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:26 pm 
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2 coats of black analine dye and 2 coats of ebony stain ?
That would make 4 coats?
Have you ever used black analine dye and stain on top?
How did it turn out?

What kind of finish do you recompent on top of it?
Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:29 pm 
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Piano Finish... Ever see a black, baby grand?

10 or more coats of black laquer, and top coat with finish.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:48 pm 
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mrafalek,

Try a "dye finish toner" which is a mix of tinting dye and whatever clear finish you're using. This is actually how most furniture is now done. I've used this stuff and can recommend it:

http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm

You'll need to top coat with a clear to act as a wear layer, but I think you'll get better results than trying to use a stain.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 8:35 pm 
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Location: Chester, Ca.
Analine dye is a powder that you mix with hot water. Use one coat and wait 8 hours and then use another coat and let sit overnight. The water opens the grain of the wood and allows the dye to penetrate. The floor will look a little purple but don't worry. When you put your ebony on the wood will suck it up and your floor will be black. Another coat of ebony and you will not be able to see the wood. Finish with 2 coats of urethane. I've done a half dozen floors like this in San Francisco. The most public one is the San Francisco Museum of Modern Arts fuction room. Just a word of warning...DO NOT get any of the dye on your hands. My first job I didn't wear gloves and it took three weeks to wear off my hands. The stuff is easy to work with and the only way that I personally know to turn a floor black.
Danny


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 Post subject: Thanks Dany
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 8:52 pm 
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Thanks for help. I will think aobut it maybe do test.
I woulder where fuction room is in San Francisco Museum of Modern Arts.
Best Regards.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 9:40 pm 
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Location: Coeur 'd Alene, Idaho
Great advise Danny ... I'll try that some time if I get the chance too...


I find Sherwinn Williams very helpfull on custom stains but pricey ... Had to stain red fir to match Black walnut ... $65 per gallon later (fortunately I only needed one) they had a match that covered in one coat. They were split fir log stair treads to match the new 8" walnut floor.

By the way .. Perry is an admitted pre finish guy ... if you are a 'laquer' man you are begging for a house fire or at least a few early health challenges. I like the stuff but it's just too darn much of a liability. Do a Google search on house fires in the news and it won't be long untill you find several articles about some floorguy (no pun intended) who burned bown a house using laquer....

Hope that helps

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In order to achieve what the competition cannot grasp, we must complete what they will not attempt. Nobody ever said it would be easy, but it's darn sure worth it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 9:52 pm 
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Location: Chester, Ca.
I meant to write FUNCTION room. It's on the main floor to the right of the entrance doors.
Man..I must be suffering from that "prolonged exposure" that I keep reading about on the urethane cans.
Danny


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 Post subject: Do you buff the floor between adaline dye?
PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 3:37 pm 
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How does this adaline dye works?
You know how it is sometimes show sand paper on maple when you use stain?
I assume you do not buff the floor beteewn coats of dyeing.

Thank you.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 7:29 pm 
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No need to buff the floor as the water in the analine dye will pop the grain making your sanding marks disappear. After the last coat of STAIN (either 1 coat or 2) you must steel wool the floor or it will come out too rough on the first coat to screen properly. We have tried every other way to make a floor black (shy of actually painting it) and this method works the best. The other good thing about using the dye is the way the stain soaks into the wood when you use it. I sometimes think that screening the floor prior to staining doesn't let the stain soak in very much therefore your'e not getting the full protection that a penetrating stain has to offer. When I first started doing floors, we never used a screen before staining. We would have to hand sand all the edges to blend them in. But, the stain soaked in a lot more and protected the floor. Now I feel like the stain just sits on top of the wood and is liable to wear off much quicker. (job security for refinishes though.)
Danny


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