I'm refinishing my living and dining room, about 300 Sq. Ft. of standard pattern paqruet and am having difficulty getting a smooth final coat.

The dining room is White Oak, the living room is Red oak.

The floor was sanded with a Varathane EZV sander using 36, 50, 50 and 80 grits. (that was all that was available for that sander at my local Menards) A water based trowl on wood filler was used between the 50's

After that I used a Rigid 6" random orbital sander with 150 grit (on my hands and knees. that was fun)

Two coats of Zinsser sanding sealer applied with a Varathane applicator for Oil based finishes, lightly sanding after each coat.

Then 2 coats of Minwax Semi-Gloss Water based Poly for floors, with a varathane applicator for water based finishes. When it dried ther were a lot of brush marks. No big deal because I had to sand anyway.

Sanded entire floor with the Rigid 6" sander and 220 grit and laid another coat of Minwax, this time with a lambswool applicator. The streaks and brush marks were worse.

Broke out the Rigid sander and 220 again. Then another thin coat of Minwax. This time I used a synthetic pad recomended by the guy at Home Depot. Came out not too bad Minimal streaking. The main issue here was when the light hits it right you can see all the sanding scratches..

Broke out the Rigid sander and 220 again. Another coat of Minwax. This time I used a Sureline 7" pad with a thicker coat. I still have some pooling and lap marks.

I've been using Water based Poly for a few years on smaller wood projects but this is my first floor.

I was thinking of renting the clarke square buff sander/polisher for this round of sanding but have a few questions and would appreciate you opinion.

The guy at HD that I talked to said with that sander you attatch a Red or White "Scotchbrite" pad, for lack of a better term, to tha sander and the screen or sandpaper attaches to that. This doesn't make much sense to me. I don't see how the screen or paper stays in place. Is that right?

Could I use this sander with just the red or white pad to remove the sanding scratches?

Can I buff or burnish the floor after the final coat?

Has my potato been baking too long to even think about doing this?

I used Tipps Satin Water based poly in one of the bedrooms (my office) which is thinner than the minwax, and is what I use on my other wood projects, and it came out great. Even with a thicker coat. Is it the thickness of the Minwax that's causing the streaking or how I'm applying it?

I would appreciate any advice I can get.
Time is also an issue because I only have Saturday's to work on this. I would very much like this Saturday to be my last one on the floor finish.

Roll the finish on, with a roller. 3/8 nap white dove, I believe Sherwin Williams as the purty roller covers

I actually thought about that but was worried about bubles and roughness.

One question, What does the "White Dove" part mean?

I would take back the minwax and see if they have Parks waterborne finish. They have it at the depot here, its not the best out there but a lot better than minwax. If you are getting applicator marks you either are not feathering enough or working into finish that has already tacked up. Turn off any fans watch for hot spots on the floor caused by big windows heating up the floor. watch your coverage rate, you need a good even consistant coat. too thin and it will not have time to flow out before it sets up leaving app marks.