Good thing you got outbid on that nailer. It's limited to a 1" staple and not adequate length for going over the Luan, and down into the Pine, (you need 1 3/16 or longer). I use an 18 ga., goes up to 1 3/8" fastener length.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Stanley-Bostitch-Br ... ltDomain_0

(There are cheaper models available in an 18 ga, for extended fastener length)

Yes, You adjust the gun to shoot the fastener exactly into the crease at the top of the tongue. Adjust the psi for depth. You want the depth of the fastener slightly countersunk, otherwise the fastener will cause a "dimple" on the surface of the adjoining plank.

That product does not come with an interlocking profile. It can be floated using t&g glue.

I only bid $78, so I wasn't too hopeful. I will keep looking for a used SX150-BHF, but if I can't find one for $150 or so, I will rent a 20 gauge cleat nailer, unless there is a less expensive brand that I could get new and wouldn't be more trouble than it's worth.

There is this one used for $180, buy it now,
http://cgi.ebay.com/Bostitch-18-Gauge-H ... ltDomain_0
The one I bid on only went for $117, so maybe I can make an offer to the seller.

It looks like the 18 gauge would have more uses, it is too bad that they don't make these with different nail head so you could convert it from a floor runner to a crown stapler, etc. I guess there is no reason for Bostitch to want you to buy 1 gun instead of 2 or three, but it still seems like a good idea.

The wood hasn't arrived yet, so I still have a bit of time. I should let the wood acclimate to the install site for a bit before I put it down, or is that not necessary?

LMHmedchem

Ah ha, they do make an 18ga that takes a longer fastener, I've always just used my 20ga. Yea, ideally Bostitch would like you to by a different gun every time you pull a trigger.

Yes, acclimation is a MUST. Good idea to test the hardwood & substrate, they should be within 2% of each other. Also RH 35-55.

But, Inquire with LL on their specs.

You can slways resell it after your done. I have the EHF-1838K model which I think is best. I also have the SX-150 (sigh) and had bought the LHF for a job I knowing I would hardly ever use it again. But it kept jamming on me for some reason and I sent it back when I was done with the job with a picture of the jammed staple. Gotta love that Amazon 30 day warranty

Yea, resell it to me. That EHF-1838K looks like a great gun, l'll give you 1/2 of what you pay

Howard, I should for all you have done for me but that one is a keeper. It comes in a really nice hard case, has all the bells and whistles any other one does, fasteners are easily attainable in local stores and came with a swivel air fitting. I'll sell you the SX-150 though!

http://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-EHF1838K ... B003BVJU2O

Hey wait a darn minute....I didn't get my extra no mar tip.

Na, I was being a warped wise guy to the PO. Hey no no mar tip?! Forget it Does it have the blow gun & pencil sharpener?

No but I heard they were going to add a staple puller and setting tool for all the jams. It's a great marketing ploy. Then the buyer will think that jamming is a normality.

Well it looks like I can buy a EHF-1838K for ~$210 (Wood Floors Plus) or $230 (Amazon), so I may end up doing that. I have also been keeping my eye out for a used or refurb. If I get one, I will definitely think about selling it when I am done, so I will keep you posted. Rentals around here cost ~$40 a day, so you can buy something pretty quickly and still have to return it when you are done. I don't think I can do this in one day because I have to move some things after I have done part of it, and I am also having some electrical done, etc.

I have a couple of other questions if you don't mind.

I have two thresholds to work around. I was going to trim the chamfered edge to square with an oscillating saw or chisel, and then butt the planks to the square finish. That would look nice, but not leave any expansion there. Is that a good idea, or do I need to leave a gap and use a T to finish the surface.

This is a hallway, so I think it would be nice to turn a 90 at both ends with one or two boards instead of just butting the planks to the end of the hall. Is that a good idea, or more trouble than it is worth for someone who hasn't done this 50 times, or 500 times.

Do you guys have to install humidifiers allot out there? I would guess that you would have all kinds of trouble with wood floors drying out in NV and AZ.

LMHmedchem

Re Thresholds: I prefer to tight fit thresholds, IMO a lot cleaner look. Wood expands and contracts in the width of the planks, very little if any at the lengths. So tight fitting the ends of the planks creates no issue to me. There's a few ways to go on tight fitting widths. Sometimes I feel comfortable tight fitting a threshold at one end, and leaving more expansion space at the opposite side of the room, depending on layout. Or, depending on the threshold,(if it's wood), you can remove it and rabit out the bottom , or undercut it,& chisel it out,to allow for expansion, or run it through a thickness planer, and install it back over the top of the plank.

Re 90 question: Are you talking about using a plank as a header or "feature strip" at doorways that meet other surfaces? If so, I think that's a great look, do it all the time.

I think RH in NV and AZ are pretty close. Constantly educating customers on the importance of a humidifier out here. Some listen, some find out later why I bugged um.

Oh, on the nailer...Please excuse me,sometimes I have no control over my warped sense of humor. Gotta watch that Actually I'm in good shape nailer wise.

Yes, very much the same: http://www.woodfloorsonline.com/techtal ... re_map.jpg

Tucson is on the kinda on the edge of the 6 and 8% since were are surrounded by 9,000 ft mountains. But most of the time my oak reads 6 and under.

I think I am going to buy a Bostitch EHF1838K. What are the correct 1 1/4" or 1 3/8" staples to use with this gun and what is the best place to get them?

The wood is here now sitting in the room and getting acquainted. I will probably start installing early next week with any luck. I still have to do all the door jambs and such.

LMHmedchem

Well it is November, and I have more or less finished the floor I started in August. This was mostly an issue of needing to keep an office up an running while replacing the floor under all of my furniture and equipment. Between re-doing all the electric, moving the baseboard radiators, etc, it has not exactly been a speedy process. I am quite happy with the way the floor looks.

I have another question about the finish. I am wondering if I should put 5 coats or so of poly on the floor now that it is done. Part of the reason is that I have two dogs, and despite my best efforts, I am sure there will be an accident at some point. I don't like the idea of the joint between the boards not being sealed. I would also guess that it would aid in refinishing if there was an additional layer of finish. If I had to re-finish at some point, I could sand the second layer of poly and avoid the base pre-finished layer.

...anyway, that is what I am thinking, but I have no intentions of taking a step like that unless someone who knows what they are doing says it is a good idea.

LMHmedchem

Sanding prefinished for a new coat is tricky business and not really a DIY sort of task. Plus it will void your warranty.

Use the floor. Let the dogs do their thing, while keeping their nails trimmed back.

When it starts to look bad with a lot of character marking, then refinish it.