Here is a job I did this spring.

Starting rows - Finshed product

Nice job around the hearth! Question........ I see a 100 lb. roller. I thought the newer adhesives did not require rolling. I always rolled my glue downs when I used to use Franklin 911 or Bruce LP. Thought you didn't need to now. Just wondering!

I supplied and used Taylor 2071 cross-link adhesive on that job. They specify you to roll it.

I really like the Taylor 2071 Adhesive, but it cannot be used with all species of wood, as it is a water clean up adhesive, and the only water clean up I'll use.

Bostik's is used on the unstable species.

So Perry,
With engineered, how do ya know which floor is stable and which isn't? Or do you just go by the species of wood ie: maple=unstable, red oak=?, mesquite=stable, hickory=unstable. I'll be gluing down Owen's PLANKFLOOR direct to a slab. The species will by white oak select. Which glue to use? Taylor or Franklin or Bostik's or DRI-TACK? Recommendations anyone?

Although I like Taylor 2071, I would use a moisture cure urethane, like Bostik's or Franklin have, on the thicker engineered, greater then 3/8".

Yes species. Taylor says not to use it on Maple.

FLoor Guy,
I'm currently installing an engineered floor glued to a concrete slab. So far, so good... Thanks in large part to what I've learnd from this site. I have a brick fire place that is positioned at a 45 degree angle in the corner of the living room. I'd like to build a border of two planks (Bruce 3" planks) parallel out from the hearth. Problem is, the edges are rounded into the joining walls so the angle cuts there will be a little dicey. I think I can crack that one with a few practice cuts. My biggest concern is that as I make the cuts, do I need to recut (make) a tongue and groove in the border planks and the joining floor planks to ensure they are tightly joined without risk of moving or shifting when walked on? If so, how would I go about doing that? Thanks again for all your insight.

Homer