Hey all,

I've been searching around here. From what I see there are 2 opinions about the install of 5" or greater flooring. I have a big job w/5" Brazillian Cherry. I would like to hear some tips if anyone has any. What's the deal with the trowl on glue before installation? I saw that on one thread. My floors will be site finished. I believe they should be free to move over time. I have 1 layer of 3/4" T&G subfloor w/3/4" CDX on top. Pretty solid floor to work with. Also.....some humps & bumps, I've used roofing shingles in the past to help level with very good results over time. Better ideas for leveling??
Sorry for the lengthy note...
Thanks in advance,
Erik

Some installers feel more comfortable gluing and nailing any plank 5" and wider. It does hold better but still allows for floor movement. Flooring adhesives are designed to allow the wood to move without breaking their bond. I have done both. I did a small braz cherry 5" plank floor by just nailing and it was fine. Gluing will slow you down and cost more so you need to get extra for that. If it were me, I'd run the benefits by your customers and see if they will pay for it. If not, just nail it and be sure you inform them of the inevitable gaps that will appear. In either case, a plastic vapor barrier on the ground is a must; unless it is on the second floor or over a basement living area.

When using glue, how would it adhere to the subfloor if felt paper is used?? No paper = recipe for disaster, right?
2nd floor not as concerned, 1st floor over basement that will be finished in future, but not now.....I need to keep moisture away. Where would you put the plastic?
TIA
Erik

A product like Bostiks MVP and then using Bostiks BEST adhesive, would do what your trying to do.

The expense is going to be what your selling.

It's my own house.....I don't want to cut any corners. It'll be done at my own pace as well, so I'm not trying to set any install time records or anything...hehehee god knows that's true with the rest of my job so far!!
So, you mean no paper & coat floor w/glue?
-Erik

Skillsaw,

I almost hate to mention this because people might think I'm a crackpot but if you don't use glue consider putting a finish on the back side. I did this on my own 4 1/4" Maple install. Actually this procedure is recommended by NOFMA for plank but of course it's labor intensive.

I was somewhat concerned about drips of finsh interfering with the tongue and groove but I had absolutely no problem. You can set up a staging area over some rosin paper. Lay the strip upside down on strips of wood to elevate them. After trying a few brands of poly, I ended up using Varathane super build formula. It goes on real thick and dries in only 2 hrs. You may also want to look into a water based formula if you or your occupants are sensitive to fumes.

The reasoning behind finishing both sides is that it will slow down vapor exchange dramatically so the moisture content will not vary as much and thus expansion contraction chaanges will be reduced. Also, the vapor exchange will be totally even and thus the planks will have less tendency to cup or crown.

I believe that flooring adhesives have been proven to be excellent vapor retarders also so it should have a similar effect with the added mechanical advantage. However, it's a holy mess IMO and you subfloor has be in very good shape.

The more I work with B Cherry the more I realize what a beautiful wood it is. Woodworkers have to do all kinds of dying and staining even on woods like cherry and mohagony but B cherry is already a rich wood and extremely hard to boot. I have gotten some horrible splinters however - I've had some go in about 1". The only good thing is that they stay in one piece so they can be easily pulled out but you talk about painful!!

PS. If you decide to finish the back side make sure you install fairly quickly after applying the finish and/or stack the strips vertically. Othrwise they will have a tendancy to bow along the length somewhat which can make install where you cannot use the blind nailer a little difficult.

Thanks much for the reply. I see that on most of the houses we build that use pile foundations (beach properties) because of the ease of moisture intrusion through the underside of the house. I was thinking about that system. I have seen it done with laying the floor out, flipping the boards over then basically mopping on the finish. Good/Bad idea??

Side note......Any thoughts on how bad an oak tread staircase would look w/main floor & 2nd floor in B.Cherry?

Thanks,

Erik

As long as you don't put the finish on with the strips touching (they will stick together) I don't see a problem.

I personally think it looks better to have the staircase done in a different species and I think it's quite common. Since B Cherry is so dark a lighter wood on the staircase will draw attention to it.

2 answers I was looking for!! That's my system.....I'll post some pictures of the floor as I go. I feel like I'm digging up treasure with every bundle I open. The colors & grains are incredible!!

Thanks again for the advise,

Erik