I'm a newbie installing 3/4" hardwood. In some instances, it doesn't seem possible to have a tongue engaged in every groove. In situations where it is not possible to engage a tongue in the groove, should a "half - spline" (for lack of a better word) be installed in the groove and glued in place to add strength? Or is this unnecessary?

Please note that I am trying to avoid this situation, but I don't think it is always possible.

Thank you

I forgot to ask question two! I am putting a hardwood border around the room. A portion of this border runs 45 degrees to the hardwood I will be installing. Thus, I will need to make a 45 degree cut so these pieces match up. In doing so, I will be cutting the tongue off the boards. Consequently, there will be no tongue to shove in the groove of this border. Is this OK, or do the pro's typical router a groove into the cut end to insert a spline?

If I don't "join" the rest of the floor to the border via a tongue and groove, I am worried that the ends of the boards may float and not match the height of the border.

Thank you

I try to always use splines when it is groove to groove. So yes, i would router a groove and spline them. I don't glue them but nail tt just like the factory tongue.

So what you're saying is that I now have an excuse to go buy a router table?

Or would a wobble blade on a table saw be the ticket (sorry, I don't know the proper name for these blades).

I would recommend a hardwood flooring project for anyone interested in acquiring tools

I use bisquits and a bisquit joiner on ends, especially on diagonal ends. Stronger, thinner, deeper, easier.

YOu talking about a dado blade?

I don't use a table, just a small hand held router.

Someone said they use a laminate router once. Not sure how they do that on 3/4, maybe just shim it up. I think Dremel even has a little router now, might have to take a couple passes at it.

I made a jig for the router. It took less than an hour to make the jig, and it is very accurate, and adjustable. I have cut grooves in many boards now. I use a 1/4" blade in the router (sorry, don't know the proper name).

To make the jig, I took the plate off the bottom of my router and used it to drill holes in a 1/2" sheet of plywood (roughly 12 x 12"). I then mounted the router to the 1/2" piece of plywood. I put a 1/2" round bit in the router and plunged a hole through the plywood. I then took a thin strip of plywood (1.5 " x 12") to act as a fence and mounted it on the 12 x 12" plywood on one end with a 1/4" bolt to act as a pivot. I then clamp the other end wherever it needs to be clamped.

The only mistake I made was mounting the fence on the wrong side of the router blade the first time. But that was easily fixed. If there is an easy way to post a picture, I can post a picture. But in all honest, there is nothing special about what I did. Just simple, and easy.

I'm not sure what the confusion is about. I used to use a laminate trimmer pretty much the same thing as a router just not as powerful. It was adjustable. After about five years it crapped out so I bought a small Dewalt router. Easy and precise adjustments. No need for jigs or router tables as the grooving bit has a bearing. I just have to check the height plug it in and router my groove.

Every once in a while I use a shaper table, ( basically a router mounted upside down, under a table). Also comes in handy for bevels, etc. Some table saws have the hole on the top side of the table wing so you can mount a router underneath. Canoko, That's what you made with the plywood.....a shaper

As a matter of fact, I turn my "jig" upside down and I let it hang down between the table saw and one of it's extensions. I wish my table saw had a proper spot for mounting this though so I could use it's fence. Oh well, that's another project.

I'm not familiar with what Jeff is talking about, but I'll have to keep my eyes open the next time I'm in a store. It sounds much simpler than what I'm doing. Although now that I've got it built, it isn't worth buying anything else.