Hi to Gary and everyone...I got my remilled floor back, the planks are 5" wide, 5/8" thick now.

1.) Should I wait until they have acclimated two weeks before back sealing them, and if I do this, will the Bostik's Best glue bond well to sealer?

2.) What should I back seal with, and is this enough protection to prevent cupping without the glue? What benefits does the glue provide over the back sealing?

3.) Some boards lost their grooves on the back. Are the flat backs an issue?

Gary, I am strictly following your "wood diet" for my floor, and I really liked your idea for testing and watching the sub floor for two weeks before the final install. Right now I am painstakingly removing glue residue from the floor as best as I can with scrapers. What kind do you use? Razor scrapers are so thin for this stuff, the blades just chip off. I have been using concrete floor scrapers. Is there a certain brand or specific name you can suggest?

Thanks to all, especially Gary, for giving your time and expertise to help us wood floor lovers make our dreams come true!

http://www.tools4flooring.com/floor-scrapers-c-75_118.html
I removed 250 sq. ft. of glue today with a razor scraper.Only took a couple hours.It takes alot of "elbow grease" but works very well.

1) Test for moisture content before sealing. Should be approx. 6 to 8% MC.
I would call Bostick's about which product their glue will adhere to best.
I know if you get it on the surface of a urethane finished floor and do not clean it off right away, it is nearly impossible to remove. So based on that, I would guess that a quality clear polyurethane would work fine for back sealing the floor boards. Something like Woodline Gloss. The backs of the boards should be dusted off before sealing but no sanding is required.
2) Back sealing is only an extra measure of protection and WILL NOT prevent cupping if there is excessive moisture in the plywood. It is commonly done in furniture to equalize moisture absorption. It will help prevent but not stop cupping. Using adhesive does not prevent cupping but does bond the floor to the substrate better than nailing only. It will aid in preventing gaps, squeeks, and just give the floor a much more secure feeling. Often recommended on wider plank installs.
3) Should not be a problem. But hopefully, ALL the tongues and grooves are still at the same height in relation to the tops and bottoms of ALL the boards. If not, it will be hell getting that floor together.

Scraping glue is a drag. I use "elbow grease" and a Crain razor scraper. Keep flipping it back and forth using each side of the blade. It will last longer as the action against the concrete will sort of resharpen the edge

Gary, you're the best! Are those Crain scrapers razor edged? I can't tell from the description.

The installer I found is going to sand the concrete with "open face paper" before applying MVP, whatever that means. Does that method remove it enough? But just to be on the safe side, I'm trying to get the glue away from the baseboards so they won't get damaged by machinery. I have already removed most of the glue from the center of the floor, but the wall areas are the toughest.

I will be sure to test the wood before sealing. Have you ever sealed a floor that you glued and nailed?

BTW, thanks Hexer, I didn't realize you were the one who posted the link. Great resource! I wish I were savvy enough with the computer to do what you pros do with the links! Thanks guys.

Mine is, yes.

As a pro who gets paid as much as I can charge, I have not found a situation exactly like your's where all these steps were necessary AND a customer who was willing to pay for it. The more I have to do, the more it costs the homeowner. If I can do a successful, satisfactory job as economically as possible without risking failure, then that is what I do. The steps you are taking are somewhat out of the norm but you are wanting more assurances due to the failure you previously experienced, yes?

Yes! And again, thank you for sharing your expertise. I can see why you are dubbed "Prized Contributor".