Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Bona Traffic Help
PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 7:42 am 
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Hi everyone. New to the forum as well as floor finishing. I'm an avid DIY'er and usually have decent results on my work. Let's hope the floor turns out too.

Anyway, at the overwhelming evidence I've collected here and on the Internet, it seems Bona Kemi DriFast and Traffic are my best options for a durable finish. I have a dumb question though... what do you guys mix this stuff in? I have about 300 sq. ft. of oak, so I assume I'll have to mix 3 different batches, since you have to use the stuff up once it's mixed. Just a normal bucket? Paint tray?

Feel free to shoot any other "gotchas" my way about Traffic. I think I'll probably roll it on. Any help is most appreciated.


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:50 am 
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It comes in a one gallon container, with a 12 oz catalyst. You just mix it in the one gallon container it comes with, there is a set of directions on every gallon. One gallon coats aprox 350 sq ft. So use 3 gallons, one for each coat.

Water based finishes are much less user friendly, and even give pros trouble from time to time. I wish you the best.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:46 am 
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Thanks. I'm honestly a little worried about using a water-based poly. I've done a good amount of wood working, mostly on poker tables, but have always used oil-based stains and polys.

One more quick question. I have dogs. Everyone here said nothing will hold up to dog traffic. In that case, does it make sense to use Bona Traffic? If anything I put down is going to get scratched up, maybe it makes more sense to use Mega and save some money?

Just curious what most people do.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:06 am 
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Quote:
Just curious what most people do.

From my experience, most people let their dogs scratch the floors all up.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:09 am 
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As will I. So perhaps it's better to use a less expensive poly and recoat in a few years.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 12:38 pm 
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traffic holds up about 10x's better than mega (IMO) and the same to OMU, but the application is tricky (with any waterbase) If the first coat isnt applied corectly, you cant buff it out like with the following coats (Oi either) but OMU is easir to work with. If the first coat is wron, you will need to resand to correct it

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:34 pm 
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I've been reading for days about what to do. The more I read about Waterlox the more I'm leaning towards using it. Sounds like a breeze to apply/touch up. Some strategically placed area rugs, 2 coats of original, 2 coats of satin and be done with it. I really like the look. I'm sure the pros could reproduce it with stain and Traffic, but being a first-timer and given that Waterlox is idiot-proof, this might be my ticket.

On a side note, this site has been incredibly useful. You guys are truly knowledgeable and skilled at your craft. The gallery of photos is quite impressive.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:19 pm 
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I personally have never used waterlox, I looked it up, and it says it is a "tung-oil" finish, Well that isnt waterbased. I have used carlisle tung oil finish, it was idiot proof almost, But the smell was herrendous. I coated 3200 feet, after we were dont I almost passed out LOL, and couldt think straight for the rest of the day.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 2:35 am 
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Quote:
carlisle tung oil finish

It's probably the same. For many years, Carlisle has recommended Waterlox tung oil finish on their floors so I suspect they had Waterlox private label some stuff for them. It does smell BAD. A respirator is mandatory.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:20 am 
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Gary, or anyone else that has used Waterlox, I keep reading that the smell is horrible. How long can I expect it to stick around? I saw that if you topcoat it with a poly, the smell dissipates. What if I use Waterlox only? We can periodically stay out of the house, but will be in and out during the refinish process.... and sleeping there. I wonder if dividing the rooms off with plastic would help?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:10 am 
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Gary wrote:
Quote:
carlisle tung oil finish

It's probably the same. For many years, Carlisle has recommended Waterlox tung oil finish on their floors so I suspect they had Waterlox private label some stuff for them. It does smell BAD. A respirator is mandatory.


I figured someone else made it, but only saw the carslilse logo.


In any case tung oil has a really bad odor, I coat floors with poly every week without it bothering me, the tung oil really got to me. I even wore a resperator and it still bugged me where with OMU's I rarely wear one. When it was dry it didnt seem to linger (tung oil). But I dont think you would be able to sleep through it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 6:48 pm 
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Sorry for the off topic... but ....Gary... are you the same Gary on the other online forum that has been offline for the last 2 days.. if so.. any ideas what's going on???

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 8:25 pm 
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yep Fast I thought maybe it was my pc at work then I tried it from home today and still getting error messsages.

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www.HeartlandHardwoodFlooring.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 8:43 am 
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Floormaster has been down for days. I wonder if Charlie, or any others are jones'n, for a fix?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:42 pm 
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We were doing a Waterlox job and a Carlisle job at the same time.
Here is a photo of the info on the bottom of both cans.

Image


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