What is the best way to add a groove to a cut end of 3/4" x 3 1/4" solid maple flooring?

I have a stair nose with a grooved back that will bump up against the ends of the boards at about a 10 degree angle. It looks kind-of like this (forgive the bad ASCII art) with the stair nose on the left and the boards extending to the right:


I'd cut the angled ends of the boards with my compound miter saw, but then I'll need to cut grooves in them and attach to the stair nose with spline and glue. I was thinking that a dado blade on the table saw should do the trick. I don't have a router, but I could get my hands on one if necessary. I figure that cutting a tongue on the ends of the board will be much more difficult.

Ideas?

Thanks!

-Chris

A router with an end matching or groove cutting bit is the easiest. You can use your table saw if you know what your doing.

When I was cutting grooves I did it with my radial arm saw. I laid the blade down parallel with the table and set the heigt such that I would take a pass, flip the board, take another pass, and it was done. I did make up a jig out of MDF that I used to hold the wood, so that I was sliding the mdf across the table and not the wood. This was because mine was prefinished.

For just a groove, I have used my undercut saw, many times

Sweet Jehova! Deliver us!

Buy an Easy-Groove router bit and use it. Make the cut and then groove the end. A monkey can do it. If you can't find an easy groove, contact http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/. You require a 1/4 in top bearing slot cutter.

If you need any other advice, contact me at beauty@alltel.net. What you are doing is not all that complicated. You simply need the right tool.

http://www.onlinefloorstore.com/store/m ... d=10000006

Thanks for the links, Chuck.

I ordered one. $19 to my door.

I'm dealing with some random size groove. Just under 3/16". So 1/4" is too bag and 1/8" is too small. I could do two passes with the 1/8", but since I had the radial arm sitting there, it was easier to do that than to find the right router bit.

One of those links, has an in between bit.

What bit did you order? Which website? And did you use it and does it work well? Thanks.

Just came in the mail today. Have not used it, but Now I have it incase I do need it.

I order the ¼, top cutter #5371 from MLCS Woodworking.

I'm going to order a couple 2 or 3 more in other sizes, as the wood these days made in China, have all different size grooves, along with the different wood thicknesses.

They sent a catalog with the bit. Like a kid in a candy store, I tell ya! Geee Thanks Chuck!

Thanks for the link . if you were going to grove a floor already laid would a plunge router be better ?

A plunge router enables you to cut into the floor, a good option to have for a medallion or inlay. Along with the top bearing slot cutters you should plan on picking up a set of assorted diameter bearings. You will need these various sized bearings on engineered stuff so the slot won't cut-in too deep.

I use the same bits, Chuck gave me the link about a year ago.

Thanks jerry .

Plunge routers are for diving in from the top. That can be handy when using a forstner bit or a spiral bit, but for a slot cutter, a plunge base is not a neccesity. In fact, it can be a hindrance. I have a PC router with a fixed base and a plunge base. I use the fixed base when using a slot cutter because i can really crank down on the clamp. It is not that big a deal when you are just grooving ends, but if you are back cutting boards and grooving them for the sake of creating the illusion of full boards all the way to the end of the field, you had better be damn sure that neither the base nor the bit can ride up or down.

Rips against a border look like crapola.

Thanks Chuck .