I have a bedroom (currently with carpet over concrete) that I want to replace with hardwood.

I'm currently looking at bamboo (Plyboo, because I'd prefer low-VOC/formaldehyde free) but I'd like some other options of hardwood to look at also.

One issue is that the concrete slab is level with the hallway hardwood. So if I install hardwood in the bedroom, there will be a small step up. Should my choice of wood be affected by this?

Otherwise, it's a low-traffic area with somewhat heavy furniture. Advice please? Thanks

I have heard of Plyboo, but not familiar with it. I have installed a lot of Teragren Bamboo. Good quality product. I really believe with bamboo you have to be careful about quality, there's a ton of it out there , and only a handful of quality manufacturers.

Are you doing a gluedown installation, or floating? Either way you want to do a moisture test ( as with all installations ). With Bamboo I always seal the slab, regardless of the readings. It just seems to be more suspect to cupping. I either use Mapei Planiseal, or Bostik MVP, to reduce emmisions. And keep your relative humidity to manufacturer's requirements.

As far as your concrete level. It sounds like whatever you pick is going to be higher in the bedroom. Basically your looking at thickness differences with the Bamboos that I dont think are going to make a big difference on the transition. I would use a reducer ( tapering down to the wood in the hall ) . If you pull up the Teragren sight , they will show you a reducer for gluedown installations, and floating.

Howard

Thanks for the tips!

I would guess that a gluedown installation would be it, but I don't really know much about how to install bamboo or which way is preferable.

Your required to perform 3 Calcium Chloride tests for the first 1000sf and one for every 1000sf after for glue down on concrete. Most every adhesive manufacture requires it. Next, you can't float solid wood flooring.
There are engineered bamboo floors and engineered click bamboo options out there.

Absolutely, you are required to do MT as per manufacturer. I just think it's good insurance , not a sure thing ofcoarse, to seal the slab regardless of readings, for any hardwood, especially Bamboo.

My opinion ... But I dont believe engineered Bamboo is a true engineered hardwood floor. I think it falls somewhere in the middle of solid and engineered. ( Regarding the manufacturers I've installed anyway).


Howard

True that there is no guarantee with sealing. However to find out if your sealer can withstand the MVE levels as they are limited one needs to test first. Even after the fact on extremely high wet slabs.

I have seen bamboo over top of birch core and underlying layers. Mostly that 7in wide long plank.

Like I mentioned, always test. If a slab is extremely wet I would never install hardwood period. Sealer will only "reduce" MVE within a range. Maybe I should re- word.
I believe slabs should be sealed before installing hardwood to reduce MVE, when test results are within a range. ( Especially Bamboo ). How's that ?

The reason why I say this is one point always bothers me. At the time you test the slab the readings are not the gospel for the long term, as seasons change, water tables , and time goes by. If a slab is within acceptable range to install with no sealer when you test. The MVE may go up, down the road, enough to cause problems. I think sealing is a smart investment for people
( but not if the slabs wet ). It's also an insulator , and a crack supresser ( to a certain degree ).

I should also clarify myself in regards to "engineered" Bamboo.
Other than Longstrip I dont think you can say Bamboo is a true engineered, as compared to other engineered products on the market.

So whats your limit on wetness? Would you stop at 10lbs or what?

Some manufacturers may say differently, but industry standard says above 7 lbs is a no-go even with a vapor barrier.

Where's this standard?

Darn good question. How wet is wet !

I would like to see something in writing myself. I dont think anyones willing to put their butt on the line

Personally , I try to use years of experience, and common sense. But NEVER would I back myself into a corner taking on the responsibility of someones MVE. Regardless of the readings.

Such a darn grey area. When it's all said and done we are looked at as the professionals.

I say try to educate the customer. Some understand , some dont. You hate to open up a can of worms , while trying to get the job. But if you dont feel comfortable with the job, pass.

Seriously? Who are "some"

NWFA Installation Guidelines and Methods, Appendix C, Moisture Guidelines and Moisture Testing:


I guess what I'm trying to say is above 7, you'd have to check with the manufacturer of the barrier to make sure their product is effective at that emission rate. Some of the 2 part epoxys say they are effective up to 20lbs/1000sf/24hr, but somebody would definitely be signing a waiver on those types of readings. lol.

When Bostik first introduced MVP the rep. told me " We tested MVP on wet slabs in New Orleans, below sea level , and had no problems". It was tough not to give him a hard time He had no answers for... What was the MVE at testing time ? With this claim , why doesnt Bostik "guarantee" that MVP is the total problem solver on MVE ?

Bottom line is of coarse it "reduces" MVE. Bostik says to do a test area of MVP at the job sight. Be real, is that going to be accurate enough to cover people months or years down the line ? Is this type of test even feasable ? I say it opens up a can of worms. Talk about covering yourself

Dont get me wrong. I think MVP and Planiseal are both awesome products, and I promote the heck out of them. Just dont let them bite you in the butt with a false sense of security.

I remember when 3M first introduced Deco Rez. They GUARANTEED the hardwood installation against MVE. We said AWESOME, here's a huge company saving our butt against MVE. We used it on every job. I'm not quite sure how long it took, but I think it was 1-1 1/2 years. The failures starting rolling in. 3M was sending checks to homeowners all over the country.

Never seen a manufacturer state that. 3 has been the manufacture standard for a long time.

Franklins 531, 2-part epoxy has a 12# limit.