Briefly, the old paint causes my jam saw to burn, and my bay window has curly molding at the base of each window "frame" where it meets the floor. I'd rather not undercut these. House is build in 1876 and the trim is very very very old.

So..how do you suggest I lay my wood in the bay window. Are there tricks to cutting ...aside from just being very careful.

Are there any bay window patterns that come to mind that anyone can suggest to me?

Thanks!
fixitgirl

I think bays look good with a 3 or 4 board border and feature strip. But everyone here knows I like that.
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... .php?t=226
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... .php?t=234
As far as not undercutting the existing moldings, then you'll either need to butt the wood tight or leave a gap and cover it with an additional molding that is complmentary. There's plenty of different styles and you don't have to use quarter round or baseshoe. Coves, ogees, scribe, stops; many styles to choose from that will work with your existing.

Change the blade on your jamb saw!!!

If it is burning and smoking, the blade is very dull.

Floor Guy: The saw was a rental, and to be honest I didn't even check the blade's sharpness...they said this particular blade would be 150$ to replace...I was told if it burns, its because of the paint! I'll rent from somewhere else and get a new blade...thanks!

Gary: That work is amazing... If I have no feature strip around the room, I think starting it suddenly in the bay windows would look odd. But running the boards in a border a couple board widths would work nicely.

What do you guys prefer when cuttting to get all the boards the same length inside the boarder:..using a router to line up those opposite ends or a circular saw?

See a pic of my bay window and the work I've done so far in next post

Here are some pictures of my work...gosh traditional strip floors are ssloooowww work!

http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jnasat ... DBUdfO2EPY

I see what your talking about. That is very old unique trim. It is gong to be hard trimming that out. Undercut it!


What is the big square your cutting out for? In inset? Cool!

That's beautiful mouding, I'd be hard put to take a saw to it. Try searching on "flexible moulding". There are a number of companies that make mouldings out of various plastics that can be bent around curved moulding.

Fixitgirl,
After looking at your photos (thanks for posting them), here's what I say.
In the bay, undercut those window casings that extend to the floor. They are actually called plinth blocks and are common in victorian style homes. The casing lands on top of those, as you can see. Typically, they weren't as fancy as yours but I have seen your style. So either undercut them or scribe the flooring to them (the way it was done 100 yrs. ago). That is the correct way to do it. If your powered jamb saw is giving you trouble, use a good SHARP backsaw (12 point) and hand cut them. About jamb saws. The standard fine tooth steel blade wears out fast and the carbide-tipped blade doesn't have as many teeth so smooth cuts are difficult. Here's what to do: Get the carbide tipped blade and make your cut from right to left instead of left to right. You will get less chipping this way. Also, don't try to make the cut all at once. Cut a little at a time, say 1/8" deep. I do it this way all the time and never splinter my casings and have used the same carbide blade for about 5 years. I don't smoke the cut either.
Also, you could border that bay but since you're not bordering the rest of the floor, it may look out of place. Another option is to just run the flooring straight to the walls. I don't think it would look bad at all. I guess you're putting a medallion in that square cut out. And, BTW, you flooring isn't quartersawn, at least not all of it. I saw some plain sawn boards in your install. But it is white oak (a good choice) and a nice job so far. It is work, isn't it. That's why I charge $8.00 per sq.ft. labor only for unfinished to install, sand and finish. After materials, average job is at about $12 to $13 a ft.

You guys are a fountain of knowledge! I'm going to just run the boards to the wall, and I think I'll undercut, since scribing boards for the first time would not result in a perfect look.

The medallion is out of walnut. A friend of a friend does those fancy medallions and inlays that cost thousands, and he did custom work for someone in 3/8ths, has some left over and said it would be thrown out, so I'm welcome to take it. Nice friend. He may offer some other bits and peices, and with those, I'm going to attempt some sort of decorative design. I'll start with a frame of walnut and go from there.

I can't thank you guys enough for your help.

fixitgirl

Not easy fitting those last few pieces against the wall. Most of the area will have to be "dry fitted" once you reach the first plinth block. Work from both sides making sure the flooring slides under after they're cut with the jamb saw. Center boards will have to be cut to fit. Last few rows will require bottom of the groove taken off so they "drop in"--then top nail.

Probably take me a good two hours to do that remaining ten square feet.

I've just cut some boards around one plinth. Is this acceptable work? Should it be tighter, looser,..?

http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jnasat ... DBUdfO2EPY

fixitgirl

Looks pretty good. As you know, you have a very small gap there so you have a few choices. Recut the flooring to get it perfectly tight. It's easier if you back cut the wood a bit, say, 15 to 20 degrees. Or, you can use some wood filler like caulking. Woodwise makes a latex product called "Wood Patch" in a white oak color. You can get small jars or a 1 gal. container. Simply get some on your finger and work it in there. May take a few applications. Then clean up with a wet rag. OR, after sanding and finishing, you could caulk it with white caulk and that wouldn't look too bad either. All in all, a very nice install!

A couple of more notes regarding your scribe job. I noticed a little chipping of the wood at the ends. Quite common with jig saws. Switch to a scribing blade with fine teeth and it will reduce that chipping of the ends. Also, you may want to consider erasing or sanding off your pencil lines before installing the wood as it will be difficult after it's installed.

The things you've told me seem obvious...but really I'm grateful for the critique..I will implement all that you said Gary.

fixitgirl

I never assume what others may or may not know. What seems obvious to you and I will be a complete revelation to someone else.