Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Baseboard heating?
PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2004 2:15 pm 
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Location: New Hampshire
Does anyone know how to deal with baseboard heating registers? Should I take them off? Work/Cut around them? Should I push the first row underneath and face nail it at an angle? If I take the entire register off, I still have to deal with the radiant piping. :?

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated! Thx!

PBuddy


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:04 am 
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Okay you northern climate guys--what's a good answer for Buddy?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:39 am 
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If the home owner wants to pay to have them removed and reinstalled go for it . It will be a lot easier for you. Just don't cut around the pipes tight or the pipes will creak when the system gets hot.


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 Post subject: RE: Baseboard heating?
PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2004 4:52 pm 
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Thx for the replies guys. What if I don't remove them? What would be the best approach here? Angle nail? I don't want the edge of the 1st row side to be visible obviously.

The registers can be removed, albeit with some difficulty (they are nailed at both top and bottom ends into the wallboard with flat nails which are hard to get at), but even then I still have to work around the piping so its almost pointless to remove them. Argh! :x Any other thoughts? Anyone else? Thanks...

PBuddy


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2004 9:12 pm 
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P,

Is this a prefinished floor or unfinished and how far off the sub floor are the registers. The back part of the register that is nailed to the wall. If you can get the wood to slide under the flange( or what ever you want to call it ) it will look better and there will not be a dust catcher. Glue and angle nail but watch to make sure the back of the board does not kit up. If wood floor is close to sliding under the register but wont. I'll take a pry bar and very carefully bend the flange up so the floor will slide under it. Hopefully you understand what I am talking about.


Dave WY


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 3:27 pm 
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pig-pen wrote:
take a pry bar and very carefully bend the flange up so the floor will slide under it. Hopefully you understand what I am talking about.


Dave thanks! Great advice. This is exactly what I've been able to do.

A Few more questions:

pig-pen wrote:
Glue and angle nail but watch to make sure the back of the board does not kit up.


Glue? Glue to what? Felt, subfloor? Is this ok with a prefinished solid? Also, how do I make sure the back part (facing the wall) doesn't kick up? There will be a lot of unequal force (obviously). If it does, how do I remedy?

Thx again,
PBuddy


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 Post subject: Update on this obstacle
PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 12:15 pm 
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One idea I thought of was to glue 2 strips together (essentially making it a 4-1/2 inch width strip), and then you can slide the one half under the flange (nice and level), and finally face and tongue nail the half closest to you. Any thoughts on this? Angle nailing is a bitch with the stupid piping and heat fins in the way.

In a related idea, I was able to deal with the heat pipe by using a door jamb drill bit to cut a hole big enough to fit around it, then cut to the circle on each side of circumference so it slides into the notch with spacing.

Many of you probably already knew this technique, but I just thought I'd add it to the record here. Maybe someone will find it useful.

PB


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 9:24 am 
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PB,

Cut your felt out under the register and glue the floor to the subfloor. Check the floor after you lay three or four rows and to see if the floor is lay flat. :D As far as glueing the two together thats fine. Good Luck
Dave


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