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 Post subject: Another Question on 5" Hickory plank install
PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2004 10:19 am 
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Location: De Soto, MO
I know that the NWFA suggests that adhesive as well as fasteners be used on plank flooring 4" and over, buuuut, is it really needed? The floor is going down in the great room of a new log house in Missouri, about 500sq feet. I will have a humidifier installed on the HVAC system and I can put an additional evaporative humidifer in the room itself in the winter. Please give me some of your experiences with 5" plank installs. If I must use adhesive, I need a urethane type, give me some brand names. Also, how do I use the air stapler/nailer along with the adhesive? Will the adhesive get all over the bottom of the nailer and make a big mess? Is there a brand of urethane type adhesive that can be carefully applied with a caulk type gun to the bottom of the plank instead of using a trowel and applying it to the sub-floor? Lots of questions, Thanks in advance,

Charlie A in Missouri


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2004 9:47 am 
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Charliea1376:
Chalk gun type sub floor adhesive will work fine. Rack the floor out upside down. Then apply a snake like pattern to the back, turn it over and nail it down. Good luck!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2004 9:45 pm 
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The idea of just squirting glue here and there ignores the purpose of spreading urethane adhesive under the floor. By full spreading a urethane adhesive prior to nailing the planks,you are creating a vapor barrier.(A darn good one,at that)

I use Bostics best. Simply rack the room and leave about 15 inches of space between the dry rows and the installed ones. Then you just spread a 12 inch swath of adhesive the length of your row,and stick the boards in and nail them. You will be able to nail a couple of rows at a time this way. I don't glue 5 inch. It has to be 7 inches before I resort to that. It is a sound method,regardless.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2004 11:14 pm 
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Chuck:
A full glue is a little over kill. It is ok if there is a moisture problem and you need a vapor barrier but it is not necessary. The glue is help the flooring from cupping and crowning. Hey thats just my opinion and I hate full glue downs. I start glueing with 5" and wider boards but you could get away with not glueing.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2004 11:56 pm 
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I understand the reason to glue,Mr. Pen. I simply reject the notion that squirts of glue will serve to prevent cupping or crowning .

It is a waste of time unless you full spread.

You are better off coating the decking with polyurethane and back coating the product with the same.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 11:48 pm 
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Chuck:
I have never had to go back on any of my plank floors that I installed this way. The only time I did is to repair a water damage floor that I install. It was a pain in the a$$ to tear up, so I know it has holding power.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 12:15 am 
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What did any of that have to do with cupping,pen?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 7:21 am 
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It's fairly common Chuck, but your method works the best--although very messy

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 5:48 pm 
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I've always considered it more time consuming than messy. I suppose bands of adhesive would prevent lateral movement,but it would do nothing to affect cupping/crowning.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 6:59 pm 
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Chuck:
We will agree to disagree, I will keep installing plank floors with my band of glue as you call it and you keep full glueing, and we will both be happy.
:mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 11:51 pm 
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May we both be happy. 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2004 12:14 pm 
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Pen,

What brand of gun type glue do you use? Is liquid nail ok to use?

Thanks,

Charlie A


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2004 6:10 pm 
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Charlie,
Yes thats what I use, never had a problem.

Dave


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