I've stripped and ground off all the old tile and thinset from my entry and now am checking for 1/8" in 6', I may be getting too particular about this but what is the best procedure for checking and marking any high/low spots. I want to level the area this week. The area seems VERY flat so far with just a 4' straight edge, I am getting a longer 6' level this week to verify.

I take delivery on my new flooring BR-111 br cherry Triangilo this Friday April 1st and plan to start the install on April 9th, is that enough acclimation time for both the hardwood (8 days) and the floor leveling material (10-12 days) in Houston, texas spring humidity?

One last question...there was carpet in one room we are putting down hardwood and when I pulled out the carpet strips some of the area of concrete slab cracked out around the nail. Is this little hole a problem that I should fill or will it hurt to float the floor over this area. the holes are 1/4" deep 1/2" round.


I still wish I was going to glue down but all the PROS here scared me away from that. I hope we are happy with the floating install!


Thanks
Rob

You should use a 8 to 10 ft. straightedge. I can't speak about Texas weather but your timing sounds fine for an engineered. It's not about how long as it is about how much. Relative humidity and temperature should be at normal year round levels. The small holes in the concrete don't matter with a floater.

Hi robncindi,

I don't have answers for you, but I am wondering.... why have the "pros" recommended that you not glue down? I am also in Houston and my WFI engineered is getting glued down this week. My installer comes highly recommended and he always glues down. Just curious why you've heard differently. ??

As for acclimation of engineered wood, I'm a little confused on this one. Isn't it supposed to be kept sealed in the box until it's installed? Due to an unforeseen delay, my floor strips have been sitting in my house for the last few weeks, in sealed boxes. I opened one upon delivery, just to confirm the product, and those boards are now slightly warped, according to my installer. (At least I hope they've "become" warped and weren't that way to begin with). Are you going to open your boxes?

Thanks.

Gary gave you the down low on checking your entry for level. I wonder what pros said it would be easier to float it? I disagree. Moisture would be their main concern?? You can to a cheapo check of it, by cleaning a 2 foot square area of the entry, and taping down a piece of 8 mil plastic sheeting. Put a strong light over the top, and wait 24 hours to see if condensation forms. Granted, a moisture testing kit would be best, and you could do this, but unless someone( wants to convince me otherwise,) this STILL won't assure you that moisture will never be a problem. Just that at the time of the install, it was fit for installation.
If it looks good, and it's a small entry , then dry fit the entire area, carefully remove the rows in order, spread the adhesive, and lay it down. If the edges are cut clean, you can fit the carpet right up agaist the flooring, and be done with it.
With a floating floor, you have to maintain a small expansion space around the full perimeter, and cover this with trim. Trying to glue down solid pieces of wood trim to a slab could be the hardest part of the job.

The area I am putting down is about 200 sq ft. (entry and dining room) and from what I gather on this forum if I glue down myself I will have nothing but problems! This is why I decided to float the floor. If this is not the case I may reconsider but I am laying the floor on April 9th one way or another.

Since I haven't taken delivery on the flooring yet I am not sure if I will open or not, I need to read the instructions on the box to see what BR-111 recommends. I sure hope I don't have warping problems!!!

I'll follow up here after the 9th to report on wether I float or glue and how the install went with pictures on my website.

Rob