Has anyone tried to fume their white oak floors? This was a common stain technique 100 + years ago - perfected by Stickley, and apparently it was used in Europe for wood interiors (floors, walls etc..).

Can anyone see why I couldn't do a gentle ammonia wash, instead of full-on fuming of my white oak floors?

Thanks!

Fixitgirl:
Have you actually SEEN fumed oak flooring? As a furniture restorer, I've never been that impressed with the fumed look, because the stains we use today more than compensate for the lack of fuming. An example is: Stain and then use Waterlox sealer with a little more of the stain in the sealer coat. Then top-coat with two coats of your favorite finish. You'll get the depth, richness and patina of a piece of fine antique.
Just my opinion.
Charlie

Can I do the same with a waterlox oil penetrating finish? Or is that what you meant? :?

I want that yellow brown look - perhaps fuming isn't what I should do - you're right, I haven't seen fumed floors, but I have seen mission furniture, and I love the color.

What color would you suggest to achieve the same aged white oak effect immediately? Early American?

jtn

Fixitgirl:
I'm thinking of Duraseal's Rosewood on white oak for a rich color similar to Stickley's look. Any color on the medium to dark tint range.
The best recipe I like using is 1) stain on bare wood, 2) one coat of Waterlox original sealer with about a 4: 1/2 ratio of Waterlox:stain.
3) one coat of Waterlox sealer (no stain added). 4) lightly buff with a maroon pad ONLY. 5) vacuum, then . . . 6) two top-coats of your favorite finish (i.e. waterlox finish, omu, water-base, being sure to allow 2-3 days cure time before putting water-based on top of Waterlox. Allow 1 day between Waterlox and omu) If you're top-caoting with Waterlox, don't abrade between coats 3 and 4. However, if you're using omu OR water-based poly, abrade slightly with maroon pad and strips between coats 3-4.
Hope this helps. Need any more help, just call anytime.
charlie
928.445.3926
Prescott, Arizona

if you want a color then don't use a bleach or ammonia wash. I've never used an ammonia wash but i've bleached before and that makes it as white as can be (way more than a pickled floor) The color your looking for can most likley be obtained by a stain. the light brown look is usually what white oak floor are naturally.Any european based methods are awfull. I swear people just say that so they will catch on in the US prob because they failed in europe. I've never used a good product that was "popular in europe". If you want a light brown color then maybe you should just go with a water based finish. Oil will make it a little darker and darken more after a few months. Waterlox is a very nice finish but goes on a lttle darker and doesn't really darken that much over time. Water based will stay light but doesn't look as nice overall.

Hard to say what you mean by aged white oak. Everyones vision is different with that. Some aged white oak floors are very orange when refinished. Usually people get an antique grade white oak for the aged look. A picture of what you had in mind would def help.