Some charts show Amendoim rated in the 1300 range and others I've seen have it in the 1900 range. How can they be so different? What really is the hardness rating?

I love the look of a sample and would consider it for our floor at 1900 but not 1300.

Oak is close to 1300 and its been the benchmark for hardwoods and used successfully in floors for centuries. Id have to ask you why you need such a hard floor? They ALL scratch and they will ALL dent evne ones on the 3000 range will. The different numbers are because the chart and testing is flawed, its was ever really meant to be used scientifically but more of a general guide. From handling it on a few occasions I can tell you solid Amendium is harder than oak more like a hickory in hardness.

I see you are in Florida. The Janka test is for solid wood not engineered floors. an engineered floors durability has more to do with the core plys and thickness of the top veneer.

Thank you Kevin! Very good points. RE: why the concern about hardness ... it may as well be my ignorance on the topic of thinking hardness equals durability. I'm trying to make the best informed choice since my family (me, hubby, and cats) will be living with and on this floor for a long time.

Any thoughts about BR-111 engineered "Contemporary Amendoim Locking" ENGCCA5? Any other brands/products I should look at?

Thanks again!

Forgot to mention that I'm still wavering between glue down T&G and click products. Any suggestions with that are also much appreciated!

br111 has some nice floors they are an importer more than a manufacturer so the lines can vary in quality from one to the other. Amendium will dent less from impacts like dropping a can or the like but the finish is the same as you would get on any wood floor be it oak,maple cherry ect. Most modern factory finishes are tough and will serve well for most lifestyles. If you throw huge dance parties and never clean the floor your going to wear out anything in short time. Take care of the floor and it will probably out live you.
On the glue down vs the floater I prefer to glue down when the slab is proper for it, meaning somewhat level and no signs/history of moisture. Floaters have a bit of flex and a slight hollow sound. If you float look for a good underlayment that wont compress too much and deadens the sound well.