Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Allowing for floor expansion in borders
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:54 pm 
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I'm trying to understand how you accommodate hardwood floor expansion when you lay a perimeter border ? I expect more expansion across the width than along the length of each board. If this is so then wouldn’t one expect to find border corner joints to have varying expansion forces and thus poor joinery.

I can understand using ¼ sawn wood and preferred species will minimize the expansion but some movement is expected. So does anyone have any installation tricks to minimize the expected gapping.

I’m using edge sawn douglas fir with maple borders with a max run of 40 ft perpendicular to the lay.

Thank you in advance.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:06 pm 
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Make sure the materials have fully equalized to your lived in enviorment.... flooring and subfloor. Then try to keep the RH and temp within a pretty close range throughout each season.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:22 am 
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Thanks for the input. I will install a humidifier. However, there are those times of the unexpected and wood will move. So I guess I still have a few questions for the experienced.

1. If one wishes to have a border, in a large room and is expecting expansion, what can you do about its corners to accommodate the movement? I’m thinking herring bone versus a 45, better? Is there a maximum field you would but a boarder around?

2. Do you even recommend using boarders if you want a real tight floor?

3. Is there a preferred lay pattern (ie 45 angle or short herring bone field) that would accommodate wood movement evenly or better?

4. Do you recommend using washers in the field for expansion space then glue and nail the border tight?

I appreciate the professionals workmanship. I always wondered how you are able to make them look so great?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 3:32 am 
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Here's the "trick" to installing bordered floors tight. The environment (house, building) MUST be within normal living temp and humidity. 65 to 75 degress F and 45 to 50% RH. The flooring MUST be acclimated properly and within 2 % MC of the subfloor (if wood). Use a species that it fairly stable and/or quartersawn. Install the field first, then the border, when practical. I've done it both ways. Install the flooring tight, unless it is a pre-assembled parquet. Those are installed tight to each other but the individual slats can have small gaps in them that are filled later. Keep the environment at the ideal (normal) temp and humidity and the floors won't move much, if at all.


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