I did a search and didn't find anything. May have missed it, but how do you pros nail down 3/4 solid (2-1/4" strips) in the existing cabinet toe-kick space?

All hints will be appreciated as I am fast approaching this problem. Hadn't really thought about until now, then a light bulb went off.

Thanks,

Carl

I cut back the felt and run some beads of adhesive and glue mine down.

I have a bunch of the old Pergo "adjustable" metal spacers and after the last row is down I will place them about 2ft apart and turn the knobs to pull everything real tight. If I can get my 18ga brad nailer in there I shoot some face nails too.

When you glue you will either need a top nail or two or use some wedges to hold until the glue sets so it stays tight.

I glue and wedge. Use a solvent based adhesive. A latex or waterbased may cause the flooring to cup.

Thanks, guys, for your responses. There is one thing I am not understanding. I am always so careful to allow for expansion, because we do have fairly good himidity swings here in TN. If I glue it down, then what happens regarding expansion? In this particular situation, the cabinets in question are about 12 feet from where I started and parallel to the flooring strips. I allowed about 3/4" gap there (I undercut the drywall at the starting point), but I understand that expansion usually goes "toward the tongue", so I am really confused about simply gluing the stuff down at the other end. Where am I thinking wrong? Pardon me if this all sounds stupid, but even though it may take awhile, I usually get it sooner or later.

Again, I really do appreciate you fellows.

Carl

carl you will still leave an expansion space and dont worry about one or two rows glued into place they will move just like if it were nailed in,so dont second guess yourself. I am also from east tn and as long as there is no spring under your house you should be fine just with swings in humidtiy its done like that everyday in this area.

Kevin, thanks. That makes me feel better, and that's exactly what I will do...glue the last strip, or two.

The hardest thing for me to conceive about hardwood flooring is to try to picture what happens when the flooring "moves". Do we assume the whole sub-floor moves with the hardwood, too, and the flooring moves with it, or does the sub-floor stay relatively fixed and the flooring moves? Also, do you agree that the floor moves in the direction of the tongue? If so, each and every strip will expand (or contract as the case may be) and the whole thing will "flow", right (or wrong)?

If you or anyone else wants to chime in on just what happens, I would certainly appreciate it. I am probably thinking way beyond what I should be, but I have always been curious about such things and how they actually work. I realize that 3/4" expansion gap at each wall is likely much beyond what it will actually need (barring a flood), but still it will move some (some say up to 1/16th inch per foot) under otherwise "normal" conditions.

Carl

Ok, a 3/4 by 21/4 plain sawn solid oak floor will move about 1/32 of an inch with a 4 to 5% change in moisture content. subfloor will stay in place and the floor will move if it cant move across the floor if not thats when it starts moving up. We sell cleats 3 to 1 because of the swings in humidity here they will allow the floor to move a little better than a staple will, ever hear of too much of a good thing? The reason a floor moves in the direction of the tounge is due to the angle of the fastener, floors will move in the direction of least resisitance. picture nailing a board in the top directly to the floor, its easy to pry it straight back up but to move it side to side is going to take a lot more force. hope this helps.

Thank you, Kevin, for your excellent answer.

Guess who bought the Bostitch floor STAPLER. You're right, those suckers really hold well. I've had to tear out a couple of boards, and man, what a job.

Oh, well, it'll do what it'll do I suppose. Best thing for me is to try to maintain humidity in my house to a relatively low level in the summer, and maybe, as you said, supply some moisture when levels are normally low in the fall and winter.

You know, I used to think maybe Floridians would have a heck of a problem with hardwood floors, but I doubt if their swings are any more than TN. Probably somewhat less.

Carl

Kevin gave a great response. Cleats are better than staples in areas of the country that experience large swings in temp and humidity for exactly the reason Kevin stated. They will give a little whereas staples don't, at least, not much. You can safely glue the last few boards. Don't use yellow carpenters glue. A quality urethane adhesive is best. Bostick's Best is available in a tube format I understand, as are other urethane adhesives. A quality contruction adhesive such as PL400 is another option. These glues will allow the wood to move abit without breaking their bond.

Thanks, Gary, for I would have probably just used good 'ol Elmers yellow. Glad you told me about the urethane type. I will go to Lowes tomorrow and get some. I believe (but I will check it out before I buy) that Gorilla glue may be the urethane type. It is nice to know that it will give a little if needed.

I'm still amazed at the info I can get from you guys.

Carl

Not sure about that Gorilla glue. I'd rather see you use Liquid nails than that. If they don't have PL400, get the Liquid Nails Subfloor Construction adhesive in the tube. Try to get the original formula with the solvent format. Now they're making a low VOC stuff that probably contains some water. Henry's also make a construction adhesive in a urethane formula. See if they have that. I don't think the Gorilla Glue will work out.

Okay, Gary. After my last post I looked up the PL400 to see if Lowes had it, but, alas, I don't think so. If they don't, I will follow your advice and NOT use the Gorilla glue. I believe they do have at least one of the ones you suggested as possible subs.

Thanks!!!

Carl

Carl, definitely don't use Gorilla glue. I failed to mention what type of adhesive i used, that's pretty important. Follow the advice already given on that.

Lowe's sells those wedge shims. Wood ones in 25pc pkg or the plastic "ribbed" ones used for laminate spacing.

Thank you, Jerry. I went to Lowes this a.m., and I was able to find 100% polyurethane PL construction adhesive. It was NOT PL 400, but I believe it will work fine.

Carl