When acclimating flooring, should the boxes the flooring is in be opened or left closed. Or does it really not matter?

Depends on the manufacturer and what they say. If not written on the box then you need to open one and retrieve the literature inside. The man usually has strict temp and rh parameters for the areas the wood will be installed. These requirements should be followed and adjusted before the flooring is laid.

Looks like I have already made mistake #1. The flooring I purchased is 3/4" (solid) x 2-1/4" santos mahogany from LL (their durawood brand). No literature in or on the boxes, so I called them. The reply? Just leave it in the house for 4-10 days. Didn't have any answers for moisture content for the flooring or rh guidelines.

I wish LL would get with the program. It's not time, it's moisture content - temp - rh. I have no idea why they continue doing that. This has been a industry applied requirement for century's. I have seen those boxes with nothing in or on them as well. Heck, even lots of etailers have some sort of literature about installing wood floors properly. Why not the BIGGEST retailer in the US? It baffles me.

Perhaps it's because they do not want to freak out DIY'ers about having to buy a moisture meter. Subfloor moisture content is also very important. The difference between subfloor and your solid is very important. Subfloor construction, thickness and type and a hundred other things as well.

Yes, I am sure that the major reason for not including the specifics is that it would freak out the average diy'er. I agree and understand that it is about mc, rh and temp.
To just leave the flooring to acclimate for a few days (or any length or time for that matter) and proceeding with installation without monitoring the vitals is nothing more than 'blind optimism'.

In regards to my question about open or unopened boxes, was just curious if there are any reasons why one way might be preferred over the other. i.e. will open boxes cause the flooring to loose or gain moisture too rapidly thus causing a problem with the wood?
I am not in a hurry at all to install this floor. If it takes a month to properly acclimate, so be it. I only want to do this job once.

I am going to start another thread with the specifics of the house, climate and how I feel this job should proceed based on what I have learned in reading on this forum and other places on the internet. (if its on the internet, it must be true!) I welcome the pros to scrutinize and offer constructive criticism!

Thanks
Mark

That seems to be the theory. Manufacturers want the interior rh to match the woods MC at milling before installation starts and or you open the box. Thats why we have recently seen the 30% to 55% rh requirement written into installation literature over the last couple years. Before you used to open everything up and let it dry down or up to your zone. Even then those are vague to say the least. Everyone seems to have jumped on that band wagon cept LL.

I would love to get a job at LL and bring them into the 21st century. I just don't think they care or want to.

LL is doing it or not in their case so they can deny claims when there is a problem. Most DIY'ers won't know to check then LL can say they didn't acclimate it properly.

This should be in the LL forum. Must be a B-iatch being their tech guy.

Embrace the technology errr....the science.

Heck...those guys could sell a ton of cheap moisture meters and concrete testing devices. But hey, who am I to tell the largest retailer of hardwood what to do. Krap, there goes my job interview.

What would be nice if they had higher end (read accurate) moisture meters that could be rented. Leave a refundable deposit equal to the price of the meter, use the meter for an afternoon, return meter in the same condition given to you, pay counter guy 25 bucks and get your deposit back.
Wish I could find someone local that could do this as a high dollar meter for this one job isnt in the budget. I will have to bribe a local pro to bring their meter to my house to check mc. Anyone in Northern Indiana want to make a quick, easy buck?

Well one thing I've started doing a long time ago was to notate the m/c of the flooring and the subfloor on the delivery ticket when we send material out. Thats one of the benefits of dealing with someone in the know!

I agree with Jeff.
IMO... it's also a conflict of interest, at point of sale, for them to educate the consumer on wood science, ( like their employees know wood science). Pretty much it's get the money......out the door.....next. It still amaizing to me that there's no installation and proper acclimation instructions in boxes. Hmm...I wonder why that is?

On another note...You may want to check the milling on that Durawood. Last two jobs I installed of that stuff..there was 1/16"- 1/8" ! variation in widths.

I was just thinking about milling variations last night. I did measure several pieces and found width variation around 1/32". But, that is just a few pieces. I have 45 boxes of this wood. The only thing I know I wont find is acclimation literature.

I would give corporate a call. Ask them to email or fax you their acclimation, site condition, & installation requirements, (get contact name and letterhead). Being that you want to follow the manufuacturers requirements to keep their warranty in affect.

Well, maybe we should give LL a break. They are out to sell hardwood and do a pretty good ...no damn good job outsellling the rest of the U.S. retailers. They ain't there to baby set DIY'ers. LOL

You wanna take the risk and DIY it, go ahead. It is up to the consumer to figure it out, try it or hire a pro to install it. Or maybe even have their pros install it. Now that I think about it, it is genius.... everyone should stop putting install literature in boxes. Especially that DIY'er type literature that tells you how to start a row to the finishing end row .lol Maybe we would have more work. heh heh

Hows that for a flip flop? I learned that from GW. No offense Mark, just ramblin.

Considering they do NOT do any moisture testing of slabs and get away with it just amazes me. I'd be surprised if all their installers are required to own a professional grade pin meter as well.

Finally had a few minutes to call LL in regards to acclimation/install guidelines. House temp 60*-80* F with 30-50% RH. 2% variance in mc of the wood flooring and subfloor.

Does this sound acceptable? Now I need to determine what the moisture content of the flooring/subfloor should be in my geographical region.