Just came across a job where the manufacturer (Somerset Hardwood Flooring) has no clear acclimation instructions with its engineered wood flooring products! They do refer to the NWFA in the event there is a need for any interpretation... I cannot believe how vague the instructions are for acclimation since that's one of the most important parts of the job.

Do you all come across many manufacturers that are not clear on acclimation? Also, I do not use the internet often as a resource for my inspections, however, are there any valuable links that describe the importance of acclimation in general? Rather than getting specific to one manufacturer, I am looking for more of an industry statement on acclimation. Can anyone provide a link? Would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you in advance for any help,

Tom

There isn't one manufacturer that has the requirements for acclimation correct at all.

Let it sit for 48 hours, is a complete joke!!!

Somerset has the best guidelines of any American manufacturer. They do not go in for the ridiculous farce of "acclimation". They simply state that the flooring and the substrate must be within 4 percent of one another.

If it is within range the day the product shows up, go ahead and install it. If it is not, don't. They don't outright lie to people by telling them that leaving it sitting around in the friggen box for whatever period of time is going to remedy an ongoing moisture problem.

Well, Somerset actually refers to the NWFA's instructional manual for any additional installation instructions... NWFA recommends 3-5 DAYS acclimation. I don't seem to think it's a farce to allow such a dimensionally in-stable product to acclimate prior to the installation. This wood floor was in a warehouse 48 miles from the job, delivered and installed the same day, AND was installed in February in a climate that is generally below freezing at that time of the year. In one hour in the back of a delivery truck, the wood can gain 7-12% MORE moisture than it already has. In my professional opinion, 3-5 days acclimation in that situation should be a requirement and not just a recommendation... This is why the end user is stuck with bad installations on a continual basis, because most installers feel the acclimation period is a farce.

Somerset has one the most INcomplete set of installation instructions of an American manufacturer as far as I'm concerned and more education and training needs to be implemented to head off such silly problems such as acclimation.

Just out of curiosity, how many installers allow their staples and cleats to penetrate completely through the bottom layer of subfloor also? The installer on this particular job will be liable to replace this floor on those grounds alone. The staple or cleat is not to penetrate completely through the subfloor or it looses its grab and will be worked loose through time, traffic and seasonal expansion/contraction.

Now this is an interesting statement that I have NEVER heard in over 26 years of laying floors of all types. Let's begin with NOFMA's and the NWFA's minimum plywood subflooring recommendation. It is 5/8" plywood over joists spaced 16" oc. Then they recommend using 2" fasteners for 3/4" T&G flooring. I know for a fact that a 3/4" T&G floor fastened down with 2" long fasteners, that the 2" fasteners recommended will penetrate through the bottom of that 5/8" plywood subflooring. Do you see the dilema? If an installer follows NOFMA's recommendations, the floor will FAIL and the installer must replace it? Sorry, I'm not buying it. And for our edification, supply documentation to support your statement that 1) the floors will work loose over time and 2) ANY manufacturer that makes this assertion.

Uhh, Inspector, you have yet to metion one word about using a meter. Why?

The last time I saw Somersets instructions they said to make sure everything is within range. There is nothing else to be said. Without a meter, there is no way to know.

Gary,
There is a little merit to what Inspector is saying relative to staple length. While you and I both know that 2inch staples are not responsible for flooring failures, 1-1/2 are better over a single layer of decking. They are much cheaper for one. Thing is, the 2 inch have more mass to them. I can feel a difference when I use a longer staple. They seem to pull the wood up a little tighter. Blowing out material on the undeside, however, cannot be good for holding power. I have had folks argue with me about how that bit of fastener that is dangling in the crawlspace is actually doing something to fasten the product. That is a nonsensical idea.

I don't think it matters one way or the other. Chuck, you and I have seen floors installed for many years that had the fasters protruding through the bottom of the subflooring. What about back when floors were hand nailed before the Powernailer? So, according to this nimrod inspector, they all will fail and the installer will be responsible. What baloney! And about cost, one would think that the 1&1/2" staples would be LESS money but guess what, around here, they cost MORE, about 20 bucks a case more. Supply and demand. Don't know about cleats though in terms of cost differential. And in an IDEAL world, all the houses would be built with floor trusses 24" oc and use 1&1/8" GP Sturdi Floor Plytanuim subfloors. Then we would not be having this conversation.