Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Acclimation for 3/4" strip in existing home
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 11:56 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 1:51 pm
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Location: Bucks County PA
First of all a big thank you for all of the experienced installers that are willing to teach us DIY-ers the right way to do the job.


We will be instaling 3/4" red oak strip flooring into my home, which is 7 years old, in eastern PA, currently air conditioned to a temp of 74-78 degrees (depending on time of day). I have pulled up the carpet and will be installing (w/2" cleats) over 23/32 OSB, and 15lb roofing felt.

I have been looking over past posts about the need for the wood to acclimate, as well as the moisture content of the subfloor, but all posts appear to deal with installation into new construction. For existing construction, with constant temperature and humidity controls, should I do anything other than let the wood sit in the house for 3-5 days before the installation?

I appreciate any guidance you may have.


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:05 pm
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Location: Knoxville,Tn
The moisture comtent of the flooring needs to be within 2% percent for plank and 4% for strip. Your subfloor is probally in the 8-11 percent range and the floring should have been manufactured in the 6-9% range. without a meter its impossible to tell. If this is how it truley is, then a few days is probally all you will need. IF they are way off ,it may take longer to get you where you need to be. You will need a moisture meter to check, I would reccomend buying one and then selling on ebay when your done.

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Kevin Daniel
Heartland Hardwood Flooring
Knoxville, Tn
www.HeartlandHardwoodFlooring.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:05 pm
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Location: Knoxville,Tn
The moisture comtent of the flooring needs to be within 2% percent for plank and 4% for strip. Your subfloor is probally in the 8-11 percent range and the floring should have been manufactured in the 6-9% range. without a meter its impossible to tell. If this is how it truley is, then a few days is probally all you will need. IF they are way off ,it may take longer to get you where you need to be. You will need a moisture meter to check, I would reccomend buying one and then selling on ebay when your done.

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Kevin Daniel
Heartland Hardwood Flooring
Knoxville, Tn
www.HeartlandHardwoodFlooring.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 1:53 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
If you're in PA, I'm assuming you're over a basement and not a crawl space. Yes, just check subfloor MC and wood flooring MC. RH should be stable, somewhat. If you install with a RH of 55% or so, you can expect some gapping in the winter when you fire up your furnace unless you use a humidifier. That's for solid, engineered will withstand changes a bit better and is more stable.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 1:51 pm
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Location: Bucks County PA
Thanks a bunch for your insight. I spent $5k on the wood, another $100 for a moisture meter seems like a reasonable insurance policy! Anyone interested in buying a slightly used Lignomat moisture meter :shock:

Thanks again...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 6:15 pm 
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Location: Austin
Ya, their is a HACK & SLASH installer here in Austin, named Garry Bitner that could really use it!

Now, if he actually knew what he was looking for, if he bought it, would be a complete miracle.

He would use it as smoke & mirrors, but that is how he runs his whole business.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2005 12:24 pm 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
Sounds like someone has a personal vendetta. :lol:


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 Post subject: OMPUS
PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2005 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 03, 2005 5:33 am
Posts: 106
Location: Prescott, Arizona
I have a lignometer. Two pronged. I've always wondered about it's validity. It's a digital.
Why would you be getting rid of yours.
Just curious.
Charlie


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2005 10:12 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 5:44 am
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Location: Austin
OFF TOPIC RANT: :evil:




Gary it is unfortunate that you have a similar name to that buzzard, and your correct!!!

What I speak is not slander, libel, or defamation, because it is a well known fact, around this city, which I have witnessed first hand! He preys on the unknowing LL customers, at the local retail store they have here, that think he has been prescreened and don't ask for references.


If he calls you asking for help with a difficult job he is on, without help. You better make a specific, not general contract with the guy. His word is as good as a turd. As I'm finding out. Yes, he has a balance due with me!!!
He once asked me to lie in court, because he got sued for a failure because of his shortcuts. (he was sprig nailing numerous hollow spots in his bogus installation) I hurt his case more then anything.

I'll slam him every chance I get now, without making a false statement, so he can't yell slander!! :lol:


I'm just a little bent, since he sent me 2 insulting letters telling me why he didn't have to pay my fees.

Rant turned off, you can resume the thread.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 1:26 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
When I first went into business on my own, I did subcontract labor for little mom and pop flooring stores; no big chains or such. One guy drove me nuts because he'd always take money off my bill saying something shouldn't have taken as long as it did or installing all those friggin moldings should be included in the price of the basic install, etc. I finally had it when he wouldn't pay for a demo my helper did and actually insisted that the homeowner had already done it. I'm about the most honest guy I know and I just blew my stack when I heard that. Ever since, I am very particular about who I work with and for. No creeps, cheats, liars, drunks, drug addicts, convicts, penny pinchers, etc. Nuff' said!


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