This is a really basic question.. but I want to be sure I do it correctly.

I've had 1200sf of Pollemeier hardwood in my home in their "climate safe" boxes for about 6 months. I'm about to start the installation, on July 5th.

Having been in my home in the original climate-safe boxes, is the wood acclimated?

Should I open the cases now so they have additional time to breath and acclimate?

Any tips appreciated - this whole "climate-safe" box thing is throwing me off!! I'm not sure if it's the same as with a traditional box of hardwood or not.

Looking at their description, the boxes are supposed to maintain the flooring at its original 8% (+ - 1%) moisture content, and they say it can be installed out of the box if the relative humidity is 45% and expected to remain at 45%. HA! Wishful thinking.

I would acclimate the flooring properly. Open the boxes and cross-stack them to maximize airflow around the wood. And use a quality pin-type moisture meter to check the moisture content in the hardwood and the subfloor. The two should be within 4% of each other for wood less than 3" wide. Flooring 3" and wider, the floor and sub should be within 2% of each other.

My two cents regarding "climate-safe" boxes??? Marketing B.S. Even their own install instructions tell you to check the mc of the wood for a baseline reading and to follow NWFA guidelines for moisture in your area.

Yea 45% is kinda wishful thinking unless you live in Louisiana or something.

I know I'll probably get lamblasted for this but ......lots of manufactures of engineered and bamboo don't want you to acclimate the old fashioned way like Howard says. But to make sure the flooring is stable..... I believe this is a better method but only if you know the "median" rh your zone affords. More and more manufacturer's installation requirement's spec the Rh within 30% to 55% before installation and install outa the box. This insure's the wood is in it's comfort zone.

If I tried to acclimate some wood or especially bamboo the old way it would split, bow and check before I even got it on the floor. lol

I should start selling clients humidifiers.

The manufacturers that tell you "Don't open the carton until ready to install"...If you try to acclimate out of the carton, your just about insured to have warped and twisted boards. Bamboo's probably the extreme. If you have a partial carton left over for the next day, those boards will start doing a number in less than 24 hours. I've run accross some products that the t&g will change dimension to the extent that it's a nightmare to put together. IMO some products, these days, are meant to acclimate in their packaging. It all has to do with the makeup of the product, in which case the manuf. word is good for me, ( unless it's a crapet manuf., just kiddin ).

I like to carry a copy of this with me to show leary consumers.

http://www.fcimag.com/FCI/Home/Images/F ... le1-lg.jpg

Our "average" zone out here according to the FPL zone map where I live is 6% MC so that needs a Rh of 30% @ 70 degrees. Lots of times our outside Rh is 4 %. But typically in a house that has a couple people living in it the Rh will run around 15% to 20 ish %.

If I can get the consumer to purchase a decent stand alone humidifier that will approach 30% Rh in the house I feel safe.

My zone is similar, and it IS like pulling teeth to get a homeowner to purchase a humidifier, they understand, but they dont get one, like it will cost more than their wood My only reasoning is they think controlling the RH isn't tangible. Geez, it's a game of craps. I purchased the best kenmore humidifier for about 165 bucks, has a thermostat, dial it right in. Fortunately , I havent had many calls RH related, but it bothers me all the time. I guess all you can do is educate the homeowner, it's up to them to listen A chart like that sure cant hurt..Black & white, in front of their face.