After a Calcium Chloride test I am now looking for what is an acceptable amount of moisture vapor emmision. my test came to: 5 pounds.

I am planning on using Bostick MVP and the glue Bamboo with BEST adhesive.

What do you think?

My floor manufacturer's (Bamstar - not a cheapo internet brand) literature says nothing about MVE. I am wondering how much Bostik's MVP is to reduce Vapor Emision. Bamstar does recommend MVP for glue down... Thanks

If Bamstar doesn't like Bostik's system, what do they recommend? You are aware the the MVP is a concrete "sealant" and you use Bostick's adhesive over that, right? You could consider installing a cheap vinyl floor as a vapor barrier and then use Franklin's Advantage to glue down your bamboo. BTW, 5 lbs. mve is too high. Another system is Taylor's Lockdown but if Bamstar doesn't recommend Bostik's, I don't see why they would recommend the Taylor system. Also, as I understand it, both Taylor and Bostik's will warranty the install using their systems.

Sorry to mislead you Gary. They (Bamstar) does recommend Bostiks and MVP. I also know MVP is for sealant then I use Bostiks Best for adhesion.

My main worry / question is where is the threshold for MVP? If my Slab emmision was 12 pounds, would Bostik still warranty the install? On the label it says will reduce 'some' of the emmision. Just wondering how much is too much... THANKS

Gary, what adhesive do you use on the vinyl? Same as what is used on the hardwood, or a vinyl adhesive?

I am sorry Northup, I read too fast and thought Bamstar did not recommend Bostick's; which I thought was odd because just about every floor manufacterer does. Doesn't Bostick's say how much the MVP will reduce emissions? I know Taylor's Lockdown does but quite honestly, I just don't do that much gluedown to concrete. Most custom homes here are raised wood subfloors. SK, when gluing down a vinyl vapor barrier I use whatever multipurpose vinyl adhesive is on sale at my distributors. If you've done vinyl before, you know once you set it in that adhesive, it's stuck. You will delaminate the vinyl from the felt backing if you try to remove it after about ten minutes. The reason I use and recommend Franklin Advantage (used to be 811, a urethane) is because Franklin formulated it especially for gluing down to vinyl vapor barriers. You don't have to abrade the vinyl first. Around here, it is and has been a common practice to install a vinyl vapor barrier over concrete before gluing the wood down. But if the CaCloride test shows at about 3 lbs, then you're usually ok doing without the vapor barrier if the wood is engineered.

Hey Gary thanks for the reply. This is my first glue down - I am used to wood subfloors as well... Needless to say slabs are a whole new world.

I rechecked Bostik and they make no claim as to what level they can reduce MVE.

I looked at Taylors and they state that they can bring 12# MVE in 24 Hrs to 3# MVE per 1000 ft2.

I suspect I should be fine since I am at 5# and it was raining during the test. The house is 3 years and there is another solid floor glued down with no signs of cupping or movement.

I guess I am a perfectionist and want to mak sure all of my ducks are in a row B4 I glue this thing down.

Any glueing tips would be appreciated by anyone. I miss my nailer about now.

THanks

Read these:
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... n-prep.htm
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... alling.htm
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... r/glue.htm
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... .php?t=217
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... .php?t=133
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... .php?t=218
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... .php?t=266

Thanks Gary - Been there and read them. The last one was interesting. Some new houses here in AK actually have 2" foam boards taped at the seams in the crawl space (ground) and them covered with Graces Ice and water guard. The water guard wraps up the Insulated concrete forms of the foundation. No venting done after that. INsulation and a vapor barrier.

We also use plastic b/t the drywall and studs to help with heatloss and increase the R value. We use housewrap which is supposed to breathe and let moisture exit like Goretex. It has rotted in some instances b/c trapped moisture and leaky siding. Now we fur out our siding to create a drain plain.

Just goes to show - no matter what aspect of building moisture is one of the biggest issues anyone deals with.

Thanks for your info...