Holy S... 11 bucks a tube!

I agree. Bostik's is WAY over priced and certainly not the "best".

What's happenig... I realize this is a old thread but I've been trying to find a answer to my glue and Staple question... I did 5" wide 3/4 red oak hardwood on 3rd floor with staples every 6 inches... It was 2 years ago now and it's holding up well but it still has 2 spots where it squeaks. I'm about to do my 2nd floor as well as 4 stair landings. I'd like to glue AND staple this time.to ensure I don't get any squeaks since it's going to be a much more high traffic area. My question is where are you applying glue? In the tounge and groove or on the bottom of the boards? If your gluing bottom of boards to subfloor are you not applying vapor barrier? Or are you gluing boards to vapor barrier? Thanks

Bottom of the boards and not over top of any vapor barrier.

PL adhesives and liquid nails in my opinion are not very good for wood flooring installs . As mentioned , they dry and become too stiff and brittle .
For instance , I've been in flooring or 20 years and have seen parquet floors where most or all of the tiles become loose because the old school adhesive became brittle and let's go of the subfloor .
Bostik's Best , Bona 851 come in tube or sausage form and are way better .I have also seen Bona construction adhesive in a yellow and green tube at box stores like Home Depot . That will work too .
I know a lot of guys still use PL400 but it is not going to hold indefinitely .At some point after you've been paid , it will loosen up . You probably wont have to deal with it but some homeowner or contractor will have to deal with it down the road . I know I have had to fix bull noses and saddles that stopped holding .

I second the bona 851, its a great product that still allows some movement before breaking. PL for t-molds only IMO (and even then, I find a lot of those pop up when the floor expands as the PL has no give)

Thanks for the advice I will get either of the recommended glues instead. I'm guessing they would be better than the PL for attachingy 3/4" treads to the roughed in stairs as well?

I regards to wide plank floor how do you guys feel about the nail and bead glue method? I've attached a link of YouTube video explaining the process.

https://youtu.be/YUYGiaV-PlM

So no responses?? Haha, honestly I just wanna do what's best. The floors came out great upstairs (3rd floor) but I dont like the cracking creaking popping you get get in certain spots... I did what Bruce hardwood recommends for their 5" 3/4 prefished Harwood. Vapor barrier and staples I think it was every 3-4 inches. To me it seems like troweling the bostik oneapp and stapling every like 8 inches would best of both worlds... A good vapor barrier, good hold, sound deadening.... Maybe it's too much hold though? The s pattern caulk gun on the back side of every board doesn't seem to really do much in regards to vapor barrier. The nail and bead method (link above) seems to get a pretty good combo of both so I'm thinking that may be the best option? Just looking for opinions. I'm in Massachusetts btw. 3/4 prefinshed red oak 5" wide Harwood. Installed 2nd floor... And eventually the 1st floor as well.

I've also discovered bostiks climb for stairs treads... Seems like the best option for that.

PL is fine, but I second also second Bona products.

I prefer latex sub-floor adhesive. It holds well and stays flexible. Titebond sub-floor adhesive sticks to tar paper that I sometimes need to use to shim up a low spot. It isn't very expensive, less than $4 for the large tube for a caulking gun.