Hi everyone. I'm new here. I tried searching for my answer first, but wasn't successful. I'm a very avid DIY-er, not a pro. I am planning out a kitchen remodel. At the same time, I'd like to put hardwood flooring in it as well as 2 other rooms and a butler's pantry.
My house is an 1896 Victorian. The original flooring in the house is 7/8" pine T&G planks about 2 1/2" wide. The are laid 90* to the floor joists and nailed through the tongues into the joists with good-old-fashioned square nails.
Most of the information here and elsewhere on the internet mentions plank as subfloor on the diagonal, but I don't see much about it being laid as my house has it.
I suspect I"m going to need some plywood on top, but let me know.
If there is more information you'd like to know, just let me know!!
Thanks for the help and what looks like a nice website and forum!

What's the question? Should you use plywood over you strip subfloor? Won't hurt, will only help. However, IF the floor joists are 16" OC, you may be able to run the new 3/4" solid wood flooring parallel with the floor joists and at 90 degrees with the existing strips. I'd suspect that old subfloor is stiff enough IF the joist spacing is no more than 16" OC. You must run the new flooring at either 45 to 90 degrees to the existing strips. That may look odd. If so, then install 1/2" plywood and run it any way you want. BTW, it would be a good idea to re-nail and/or screw down the existing strips before going over them.

Thanks for reading between my babble to get the question I was after- which was if I could lay it over the current subfloor.
The joists are 16" OC, but with a need to renail, or screw them down, I think it probably makes more sense to go with plywood over top.
If doing plywood, would I still need to renail all the strips?
Thanks again.
Quinn

There is your sub-floor right in front of you. Put the screws in and drive down the existing cut nails too, while you're at it. (if you can get at them through the gapping between the boards). Use a large centre punch or just ignore this if the floor seems reasonably secure.
This is YOUR home and for a few hours labour, and a box of screws, why cut corners.
Personally, I think I would only use 1/4 inch or 3/8th inch plywood since it really isnt a structural concern. But I am not too familiar with the rules and regs where you are. I will mention (but dont listen to me) that we have installed directly on top of old pine floors when height was an issue at junctions to other floor coverings. But you must install perpendicular or diagonal in that case; and it is not always esthetically pleasing to the eye.

The biggest challange for screwing it down first will be that it would all have to be pre-drilled and counter-sunk. As, from experience with this particular floor, while it is sturdy, it tends to split very easily.
Also, since you all have mentioned layout, I think that for layout it will make better sense to put down the plywood.
Thanks,
Quinn

Well make it a two man two tool job then. You will want to staple tyhe plywood to avoid these splits so drilling and screwing the subfloor first will speed things up.

I think the two-man approach is what I will do.
I found it interesting that you would staple as opposed to nailing or screwing down the plywood... Is there a reason for this recommendation besides the risk of splitting?
Thanks,
Quinn

Staples hold better than nails, even ring shank or screw shank. Screws hold best of course but are more costly and much slower. I have stapled down all my underlayments for years.

but i have a similar situation..

i would like to lay down 1/2 inch cdx over 1 by six diagonal sub
floor in a 1936 house

what are my options for staples.. i e what size, type and length?

also if i screw what size and length deck screws ?

The staples I use are 16 gauge, with a 7/16" crown and either a 1" or a 1&1/4" leg. They are called general construction staples. Avoid using those skinny 1/4" crown staples. They are inadequate for underlayment. 1& 1/4" sheetrock screws would be adequate for screwing down. #6 I would think

thanks.....

i could probably buy a compressor and a staple gun for teh amount of money i have to spend on those damn screws...



i always like to find interesting ways to justify the purchase of new tools ...