Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: 1st Coat
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 8:22 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 6:08 pm
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If i am doing a natural finish i use universal sealer as my first coat and then in 45 mins do my first coat of poly. If i am going a stain i use the duraseal 2 hr stain and seal then do my first coat of poly....
My question is does anyone have any tips for being able to adequately see where you are polying and where you missed. I try to go slow and fully cover on my first coat of poly but due to the sealer and stain, the fact that the floor looks "wet" from those things its hard to see missed spots and such. Anyone else have this problem? The 2nd & sometimes 3rd coat is easy to see because i have buffed between those coats.
Any tips?

P.s... trying to carry and move around a light would just be cumbersome and annoying so to me its not an option.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 2:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
I always work out of the room away from the light source. This enables me to see the glare off of the floor. The fresh finish will always be "shinier" than the existing, dry coat. I'll often need to bend down to be able to view all the floor well to catch any finishing flaws like missed spots, drips, puddles or debris in the finish. Sometimes, I'll need to temporarily use a light source, like a work light. I have also developed an application technique over the years that minimizes the potential for missed spots and puddles.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 4:23 pm 
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Will you be sharing your application technique?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 7:01 pm 
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In small rooms or cut up areas, I use a 10" Padco painting pad, screwed to a extension pole. I load the pad up with finish from a large plastic dishpan and apply it with the grain by pushing the pad forward. When reaching the wall, I lift the pad and pull backwards but over a few inches onto the area previously coated. This feathers the "application" line and ensures 100% coverage. It takes practice and is kinda hard to explain. I wish I had a video.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 7:14 pm 
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do you use the painting pad with oil based finishes, water, or both?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 7:58 pm 
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You can use them with both. However, the Padco Pad brand do not work very well with shellac (US sealer). The denatured alcohol melts the adhesive that holds the pad onto the handle. But they work great for waterbornes and OMU's.


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